* This blog is from a personal road trip journal to Sarahan in Himachal Pradhesh that we (6 riders) undertook from Delhi*
It takes a lot of planning and preparation to take a long ride trip. Almost an year after acquiring my prized possession – The Royal Enfield classic 350 cc mean machine – things finally fell in place and i was set to ride on the long 3 day independence day 2016 weekend to the hills of himachal.
Now coming to the most exciting and also tumultuous part – where to go? Of course options are many, opinions are too many (in lunch table conversations) but you need a sound head to point at a place in the map keeping in mind time, the riders in company and the halts enroute. After Multiple iterations and lot of brainstorming among the core rider group, we settled on a direction (and not a specific place) which was towards Narkanda and beyond approaching the Kinnaur valley. And if all goes well, we zeroed in on this place called Chitkul, which also happens to be the last Indian village before Tibet border post. It is approximately 640 Kms from Delhi one way and accomplishing this is a huge ask and would be met only if every minute plan in the middle of the 3 days follows suit.
We were a pack of 6 riders, 4 of whom own RE bikes and for the rest we had to rent motorcyles. And of course not everyone had all the riding gears, so we had to procure them on purchase or rent basis. A weekend before the ride, we caught hold of an aggregator in Karol Bagh market who agreed to arrange gears like riding jackets, shoe covers, guards etc on rent. The arrangement for 2 rental Thunderstorm 350cc bikes were fixed too. Not undermining the importance of safety during the ride, all of us planned to be fully suited up for the ride even if it added to the extra effort of arranging them. A night before the ride day, four of us were haggling around the Naiwalan market in karol bagh which is the mecca of all things automobile in Delhi. It took us 3 to 4 hours to get all gears and bikes sorted out and pack our bags home for a much needed sleep before a long day – The Ride day.
As per plan, we mutually agreed to leave our source (Noida) early evening to beat the weekend traffic rush expecting lot of people departing from delhi. Bags were packed in the morning itself and all stuffs carried to the workplace. Only saddling the bags on the pillion and gearing up was left. But those were left to be done before we kickstart our bikes. The clock finally struck 4 30 in the evening and we started for the parking area to begin what was about to become an epic journey. In the next half an hour, we tried adjusting, repositioning and saddling the bags tied through bungee ropes and adorned all the riding gears. There is no fun in not having any adventure or misadventure in such trips and we had out share too. I lost 1 of the riding glove and after 10 mins of searching it vehemently, lost hope and decided to ride the first stretch without the gloves. The bikes were on, throttled, tank full and engines tuned up to start. And just to make things more exciting, rain gods started pouring on us. All bikes in a line and we rode in a pack. First target – we cross Delhi border as early as possible.
Stretch 1 – Noida to Zirakpur via NH 1
As soon as we left Noida, we encountered a massive pile up jam near ISBT – the gateway to North of Delhi. It seemed as if more than half of Delhi NCR people were escaping from the city. The bikes inched along till we touched NH 1 and only then, after an excruciating play of clutch and brake we managed to pull throttle for a while.
We dragged on till Murthal amidst medium to heavy traffic. Further, we rode at a smooth sail of 80 to 90 KM/ hr average to reach Ambala in around 2 hrs time. The original plan of halt for dinner was at Puran Singh ka Dhabha in Ambala but having taster the speed and cruising ride, we decided to further enter Punjab and cross onto Zirakpur. Dinner was had at Gurpreet Dhaba on the Ambala – Chandigarh road. We had the plates served at around 12 AM which gave us some time to unload and stretch after the continuos 6 hr ride.
Stretch 2 – Zirakpur to Solan via NH 22
After tanking up our stomachs we left the dhaba at 1 AM to re fuel the petrol tanks as the ascent to the hills was just in the horizon and gas stations are sparsely located in the mountains. We drove through panchkula, Pinjore to reach Parwanoo which is the entry point for Himachal Pradesh.
The next hour’s ride was full of pits and slippery roads as road construction was in progress. Just when we were acclimatising with mountain biking, there was a shudder and 3 guards came running in front of out bikes. We just encountered a minor land slide which is common during the monsoon period. This made us all the more vigil in the dead of the night and slowly we crossed Barog and reached Solan. Our night’s halt was at a beautiful himachali homestay called Athithi Kunj. We parked our bikes for the day after a long 10 hour ride and felt like finding a shore after swimming an island when we lunged to our beds at 4 Am in the morning.
Stretch 3 Solan to Kufri
Next morning we woke up to the sound of a chugging toy train after catching around 5-6 hours of sleep. That is when we realised the beauty of the homestay location which was just along the Kalka Simla narrow rail line.
We were host to a homely reception by the Local couples running the property. The land lady Ms. Urmil Thakur epitomises the kind hospitality and humanity that people across the state of Himachal display and in no time we found a home away from home. After all how often can you be served a homely breakfast of Aloo paratha and chai on a rainy morning in the dining hall of the hotel owners. In fact to call it a hotel is injustice. It is rightly called a homestay and also approved and recommended by HP govt. So you know where to drop in and have tea on your next journey to Simla.
We waited for the heavy rains to halt and re-ignited our bullets to take the climb up the hills from Solan. Now riding has its own fortunes and misadventures. Only thing you can do is keep yourself fully stocked and be prepared for any adversary.
Just as we crossed few Kms into Kandaghat, one of the bike’s rear tyre got punctured. Little did we know that finding a puncture fixer and getting the job done would be a pain in the hills, we almost stood there at the location for the next 3 hrs till it got fixed. It was almost 6 in the evening when all of the riders could start again after the midway unplanned halt. We realised such instances do happen on long rides and its better off riding with a group than solo as you can always bank upon some moral and physical support to get through.
Soon in no time we crossed shoghi and reached the entry point to Simla. From Simla there was a parallel bypass route to reach Narkanda without entering simla town. We decided to take that to avoid the tourist traffic of simla. The road was bumpy and pothole ridden and we could chug on slowly to reach the old simla tunnel and road onwards to Kufri and Fagu. It was becoming pitch dark and just as we were about to reach Kufri, one of the riders in the lead noticed a small roadside dhaba on a turn. Though we stopped there for a quick chai, but couldn’t resist having a hand on the fresh and hot tandoori naans the guy was preparing. And to further egg us on, the guy claimed he made the best amritsari naans in Simla
That night we decided to halt at Kufri, after considering the time of the night and the comfort of fellow riders. It was easily another 2 to 3 hrs of ride and doing this at night was not a recommendable option among the group. Alternatively, we decided to take a good night’s sleep and start early next morning. After all, early mornings are the best time to ride as you are full of energy, pumped up on enthusiasm to explore further, less congested roads and less wear and tear after a sleep.
Stretch 4 Day 3 Kufri To Narkanda
We woke up to a beautiful valley view next morning and after having our tea and omelettes decided to pack and ride Generally, its better to have a heavy breakfast or brunch on ride days but only after you have driven for 2 or 3 hours. Doing a heavy breakfast even before you have driven the first 50 or 100 KM offsets you on time and energy. Just as well all were saddled and bagged up to ride further, the puncture scare hit us again. Same rider, same bike , same tyre. We weren’t prepared to lose another set of precious morning time after last day’s experience. Having given a wise thought, 2 of the riders (including the one with the punctured tyre) decided to stay on for repairs, and 4 others proceeded ahead.
The road from Kufri to Narkanda, which was planned to be our next milestone, passes through small towns and a dense cover of pine tree forests with a view of the satluj valley. Having braced ourselves for this wonderful scenic views that day, we quickly crossed Theog. At theog, we refilled the tanks to full as the density of fuel stations was expected to be sparse as we traversed into the remote hills. Such calculations are necessary especially when you are riding a Royal Enfield Classic 350 motorcycle which neither displays a fuel meter nor has a large fuel tank. The stretch from Theog to Narkanda is a rough ride that passes through potholed muddy roads and a steep ascent in some patches. Once we reached Narkanda, we quickly synced up to plan the way ahead. It was around 12 : 30 by the time we reached there, we were waiting for an update from the 2 riders left behind. The news from Kufri came that 1 of them rode back to Simla due to multiple problems in the tyre and the other was approaching us to catch us on. After some discussions on the milestones, and hours left behind with us, we finally decided to ride further onwards to Rampur and may be reach Sarahan if time permits.
Stretch 5 Day 3 Narkanda to Sarahan via Rampur
The road from Narkanda to Rampur promises sheer beauty and magnificence. From Narkanda at a height of 8599 ft, one needs to take a descent down the hills to Rampur which lies downstream along the Satluj river on NH 22. People can also take an alternative route from Narkanda to the Jalori Pass which is 90 Km from there. But we decided on our path to touch Sarahan which seemed like a distant dream as we didn’t know exactly what lies ahead. As a tourist, you have chances of covering Simla, Kufri and upto Narkanda, but the real traveller will have to venture beyond that. Soon, we were riding through cool and dense green pine forests towards rampur. We crossed Kingal and crossed over to Kumarsain where you come to encounter the first view of the Satluj river flowing far downstream. You can take only a bird’s eye view from here. We parked our bikes along the SSB (Shasastra Seema Bal) base camp at Kumarsain to enjoy some views of the valley below.
Post lunch we started riding further closer towards the Satluj river. The very sight of a river on you travel journey gives you great respite. You can very well relate to its free nature as if it gives you sense of courage to carry on with your exploration relentlessly in search of the core happiness you get as a wanderlust traveller. The river side drive was indeed splendid as it made us enter Rampur Bushahr. This town has a historic significance being once the capital of the princely State of Bushahar. Rampur is presently one of the biggest commercial town of Himachal Pradesh. It is located on the left bank of river Sutlej. The town was once a major center on the old trade route to Kinnaur, Tibet, Ladakh and China. According to some historical evidences, a trade treaty was signed between the Bushair state and Tibet, during the reign of Raja Kesar Singh.The famous Lavi fair is held here every november.
At a particular stretch of road where we felt we were closest to the river, we mutually agreed to park the bikes along the riverside and gasp at the flowing mother nature. We couldn’t step down to the waters as he flow was heavy and as responsible riders we refrained from taking any risk. The clock struck 4: 33 PM and as if we had recharged our batteries seeing the gushy Satluj flow closely, no one had a doubt that we are riding to our next milestone Sarahan – 40 KMS uphill.
In our entire journey, the most pleasurable roads we found were in Rampur. NH 22 widens here on a 2 lane highway and offers the best ride (much better than in touristy Simla, Kufri etc). Even our motorcycles accelerated in glee and in a swift mode we could reach the Jhakri town. In the middle, you can take an awe at the scenic wonder of green mountains on one side and rocky white cut mountains on the other. The road in between feels like a dream to ride on. As we move further interior into the Simla district, the road from Jhakri to Jeori which is approximately a 10 KM ride is patchy and offers you loads of mud and dirt biking experience. You will have to be full on control on your bike handles and operate with minimum gear to traverse through the wet patches.
As soon as you reach the junction at Jeori, its time to say goodbye to NH 22 finally. The road to sarahan is a sharp uphill right U-turn from Jeori while NH 22 continues on towards Reckong Peo and Kharcham valley. Sarahan is a sharp ascent 17 Km from Jeori and you can see fine apple orchards and tress along your company as you ride ride uphill in the company of only a few vehicles. The road being narrow, the ride has to be done carefully as any overtaking of cars or one of busses is a tough task. Post this 30 – 45 minute ride, you can reach the sacred temple town of Sarahan.
We reached there in the evening just as the sun was whisking away for its setting time and we could witness a beautiful wooden architecture structure in the middle of this small town. It is the Bhima Kali Mata temple, which is much revered among worshippers from local villages to far beyond. The sun setting on the temple was a spectacular view and the whole of sarahan town revolves around this ancient temple. We seemed to have found bliss in heaven after a hefty and rocky ride of ~ 550 KM from our homes.
Next morning we woke up early to pay our visit to the temple (it opens at 5 30 AM). And as you can commonly observe in across the small and temple towns of India, life starts early in the morning. The air was pure and as pristine as it could get. Shops were wide open for their daily business. It was Independence day (15th Aug 2016) and the flags were fluttering with pride on our motorcycles. With chants of Jai Bhima kali as our ride slogan, we set force to enter the last leg of this extremely wonderful journey.
Stretch 6 Day 4 Sarahan to Delhi (Noida) ~ 550 KM
After a relaxing halt last evening at the temple town, it was time to reverse our directions. It was the last day of our planned journey and we had no option but to head back home. Our originally planned destination of Sangla and Chitkul was still 120 Km away but that had to be dropped from the plan this time. It was a tough decision having come so close but as a traveller you got to understand the graphs between wants and time left and draw a rational curve. Our curve was drawn back towards home which was still a huge target as it meant riding almost 550 KM on a single day. Even if we did it non stop, the google maps suggested us to chalk out 14 hours. Without bothering much about the long haul, we decided to just start and cover the longest mile on our first run post breakfast.
Generally it is a common practice for riders to disperse and ride at a faster pace while on return. As everyone is in a rush to reach home. But it is all the more imperative to ride as a unit especially on nights and maintain the same sanity on return rides. We clocked the Sarahan – > Rampur – > Narkanda – > Kufri in a single stretch in the morning ride in about 3 hours time. Simla was still some 20 Kms away when we decided to break off at the Amritsar naan dhaba on return as well. Somehow everyone wanted to have another go at the crisp naan before we return to the hills again.
After a filling lunch and some dips of hot chai, we continued onwards passing through Simla town when we started getting the mad rush of people returning to Delhi, Punjab and other states after a long weekend. At Solan, we re-tanked again as we had already run about 350 KM from the last filling. It was good to go till we reached homes. Crossing the rush and serpentine car queues ate Solan and Parwanoo stretch, we meandered through the lanes easily on our bikes. That is one big advantage of biking on the hilly roads. We rode non stop further only to halt at Ambala. At Puran Singh Dhabha, when we checked in, it was already 9 : 30 PM. We could feel a hint of tiredness in our limbs and eyes. After a quick debate on whether we must stay back overnight or ride to Delhi, we decided on the latter and after some quick snacks and nimbu soda we started riding again. The level of excitement and energy were almost half while we were riding back home on NH 1 but we had to keep going on as that the part of every return journey after a memorable trip. Delhi was still about 200 Kms away. Riding at the night time and that too at half our energy levels, we were cautious enough to keep our adrenaline levels low on the accelerator and were driving in a queue on an optimum speed. Personally, I would suggest riders not to opt for riding back on NH 1 for a long time during night time especially during return journeys. But we pulled on, and slowly safely after multiple pit stops over midnight chai at Karnal and Murthal, we hit Delhi at 3: 30 AM.
At 4 AM, I parked my bike at my home when the meter read 5101 KM. My face was all muddy just like my motorcycle and it could be clearly said we both tasted mud on what was a mesmerising bike ride over the last 4 days. It felt as if reaching home after a strenuous journey was a much need respite but no sooner I realised we have just tasted blood and the desire to ride again shall only rise from here. It seems to be a great accomplishment after having executed this Independence day weekend ride to the hills especially after a month long of planning and arranging all the logistics. We couldn’t conquer Chitkul though, but having touched Sarahan and back in a span of 84 hours and without any major misadventures is a big feat. Hope this blog journal inspires us and others to some time plan and execute such a ride with so much panache. I am sure the mother nature has a lot to offer that one can only dream of sitting in your bedrooms. The mountains look much hypnotising with naked eyes than on your laptop screens and it is doubly hypnotic when you see theme riding on a motorcycle.
Travelloto - A Wanderlust's Diary 